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The climate control module on your Dodge Ram controls the heat, A/C, temperature, and more and can be adjusted in your cabin to keep your truck comfortable. Finally I measured the discharge air temperature with the heat on maximum, 134°! Be sure to put a drain pan under the truck to catch the engine coolant. Another uses the OEM core, but recommends cutting the supply and return tubes and connecting them to the old supply and return tubes, using short pieces of heater hose and four clamps. Issues with air vent positioning. Remove the two nuts and two bolts that secure the center of the dash assembly to the SRS bracket. I also inspected the blend doors for wear and tear and proper operation. There is an excellent write-up on these doors and how to replace here: My heater controler is stuck on vent and won't go back to defrost on mt 2010 ram 1500 so can you please tell me haw to fix the problem please. The heater box's design now contains leaking fluids. ) Using pliers, pull straight up first on the control rod, then pull up on the cable support bracket. See editor's notes at the end of this article.

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I did some searching and found no answer so here goes. No idea where to find this piece or what the part number is. Reassemble the upper and lower half, making sure the blend doors are in their respective mounting holes and move freely. This can affect the comfort of your cabin, and may also affect the control of your blower motor or activation of the A/C compressor. The second is in the upper right hand corner behind the glove box, facing up. Dodge ram vent selector not working paper. Remove the air box and the three screws securing the ECU to the firewall. If you have air flowing only through the vents with no defrost or floor, this door is failing.

I put a new blower in last winter from checker auto parts cause my other one squealed and I seem to remember it working good when I put the new one in. Do you think I have another bad blower motor or could it be a wiring or maybe a ground issue? I think it makes good sense to do the job once and do it right. Install the new heater core. Knowing all of this, I talked myself into getting it done. I found it was easiest to lift the dash onto the two 13mm bolts and roll it up toward the windshield. Before letting go of the dash assembly, I ran in three of the five top dash screws. Remove the entire box to facilitate inspection, cleaning and replacing of worn or broken parts as required. Air Vent Selector Not Working?: the Blower Control Works Fine but. That's the bolt that holds it all together. I hadn't observed coolant leaking in the cab…yet. What I suggest is this.

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Hi, What you described sounds like it is related to what is called the mode door actuator. In my years with Turbo Diesels, faster methods do not always equal a quality job. In all, it is a job definitely worth doing, just not one I would want to do again anytime soon. The floor position is no different from the floor/defrost position. And, the old tubes penetrating the firewall are used as part of this scheme. Onward to the heater box internals. The balance of this winter is going to be much more comfortable. Drop the steering column down and rest it on the seat. While the box was apart I carefully cleaned the fan and the interior of the box. I even rolled up my car blanket and put it away. Dodge ram vent selector not working from home. My heat only comes from the vents and and when I change to defrost or floor it doesn't happen. Had I not pulled the heater box and disassembled it, I would have not found the pine needles blocking the air flow and I would not have received the full benefit of the labor-intensive repair.

I measured the inlet and outlet temperatures on both turbochargers and across the heater core to confirm coolant flow…all good! Do not remove the bolts at this time. Images (Click to enlarge). If you notice these symptoms, inspect the climate control module and wiring for damage, and check the actuators to ensure they are working as they should before replacing the climate control module. Disconnect the gear indicator cable from the indicator and shift the gear selector downward. Bless YouTube for a plethora of "coming attractions" showing the steps to get the job accomplished. Dodge ram vent selector not working draft. Heater core installed. A/C oil added to the system. Again, here is that dirty A/C evaporator. It can also control the climate control actuators below the dash that make the adjustments as needed to reach the desired vent position or temperature.

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As I mentioned earlier, note the pine needles blocking airflow. Everything else seems correct, but won't stop blowing air from defrost when it's on floor only. I then installed the two bolts and two nuts supporting the center to the floor and completed the installation by securing the five screws on the top. Using this core will allow the installer to remove and replace the core without removing the heater box. It's what the actuator slides into that moves the blend door.

I finished by attaching the various trim panels. I started with the interior nuts, then secured the four on the engine side of the firewall. Editor's note: The Geno's folks are sending Scott a Cab Fresh Filter Kit to cover the outside air inlet grid and prevent the messy pine straw and debris problem in the interior of the truck. Now we're making progress, removing the dash-to-cowl screws. Remove the safety collars. After 19 years of service, Red Ryder's tubes were flattened and the corrosive effect of electrolysis had taken its toll. Release the A/C supply and return quick disconnects. A/C evaporator installed. Engine Side of the Firewall. The box is out of the truck! Disconnect the blend door cable. This actuator is responsible for air flow direction.

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Where is the activater that switch from defrost to floor. Sunday, January 22nd, 2023 AT 8:40 PM. On the return trip from Coeur d'Alene, Idaho, in January this year there were some unusually cold temperatures. The trim pieces that hold the carpet at the doorjamb. I've been keeping a car blanket in the cab during the winter for a few years now. The two doors that governs flow between dash vents and defrost/floor are "mode door 1" and "mode door 2. " Remove the five screws where the dash meets the windshield interior cowl.

His caption stated, "My toes went numb about an hour ago. " I topped off the fluids, connected the batteries, started Red Ryder and checked for leaks. I installed the new A/C evaporator. Here are two downside thoughts that come to mind: - Having mechanical connections on the cab side of the firewall is inviting a leak that will not be contained. Remove the two screws holding the center plastic cover for the SRS. In short, it involves dropping the steering column, removing the entire dash assembly (electronics and vacuum lines included) to gain access to the heater box on the inside of the firewall. You most likely have an air door actuator problem. Remove the engine coolant supply and the return hoses attached to the heater core by removing the clamps and working them free. I used my infrared thermometer to measure the inlet and outlet coolant temperatures and verified they were receiving adequate coolant. Repositioning the dash assembly worked best for me with two pairs of hands. Then you remove the coolant lines, vacuum lines, refrigerant lines and the computer to gain access to unbolt and remove the heater box. Separate the upper and lower half of the heater box assembly and remove the A/C evaporator.